Music Trip: Memphis

On September 21st, I embarked on what I can only describe as a bucket list trip. A personal journey exploring five different music cities. Mine was an attempt to research music and musicians. To learn and understand the history of rock, soul, jazz and a little bit of country music in the United States. Then take that history and look at the progression of where the music is today. Ultimately, to gather material for my fiction book.

My first stop was Memphis, Tennessee. Memphis is noted as the most widely known location for the start and roots of Rock n Roll. More importantly, Memphis is known for some of the beginnings of soul music. I have a great admiration and respect for soul music. After all, the name describes where it hits me- deep in my soul.

When I began my research for what to do in Memphis, I stumbled quite by luck across a couple of amazing opportunities. First, and what I felt to be the perfect way to begin my trip, an event at the Civil Rights Museum. On Fridays in September, the museum hosts the MLK Soul Concert Series. An outdoor concert which features some more widely-known soul artists.

I landed in Nashville and promptly drove what ended up being 3.5 hours to Memphis. The closer I got to Memphis, the worse the skies looked. A rainstorm felt imminent. Sure enough, as I got to my Airbnb, the clouds opened wide and rain poured down. I wasn’t deterred though, I looked on Twitter and saw the concert was being moved indoors. And there were two singers instead of the usual one. I was in luck!

My Lyft driver was a total gem. Though I am horribly biased. She and I quickly learned we shared a birthday! This was a great sign for the start of my trip. Before she dropped me off, she suggested two BBQ places. I thanked her and quickly made my way to the venue. Then I stopped in my tracks. I realized, I was standing at the place where Reverend Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. The place. A profound sadness shrouded me, the images, the footage from that day in April, 50 years ago all raced through my mind. The cars were still out front. A wreath indicated the very place where Reverend King died.

I paid my respects. More importantly, I prayed. For the past, for the present and for the future. I prayed this music journey would reveal what I truly believe – Music brings us together.

As I said, I am a fan of soul music. The rhythm, the sound, the feel – all of it speaks to me and courses through my veins into my feet. If there is one talent I am proud to own, it is my ability to dance. And dance I did! And sang. And listened. I had the absolute best time. Two different singers performed, Karen Joy Brown and Keia Johnson. I couldn’t remember the last time I felt so purely joyful. I may have shed a few tears with some of their songs – feeling deep gratitude for being there in that moment.

Saturday found me making my way to the Rock n Soul Museum. Except, I hit a self-imposed detour. If you believe in signs, this next part of my story is for you! On the street I noticed a lot of new model Corvettes. Then I realized there were more and more. I noticed people wearing what looked like club affiliated shirts. I asked two men standing on the sidewalk. Apparently it was a Corvette Club Convention in Memphis! Since high school, I’ve wanted to buy a black 1982 Corvette Stingray with T-tops. The more I work on this book, the more I want to buy a brand new one. This was my sign for sure! I did have to leave the metal machines and begin my museum tours.

First stop, Rock n Soul Museum. They have a great deal with something called a ‘Backstage Pass.’ I was able to buy passes to 4 Memphis museums at a reduced price.

The Rock n Soul Museum was incredible. So rich with history, lore and all things music. I learned of the true blending of lives to produce the sounds from Memphis. The impoverished hillbilly sounds mixed with the African American spiritual traditions and voila! Rock and Soul music. I saw the beginnings of how people listened to music. From battery operated radios, to 78s to the early starts of the jukebox to CDs to MP3. And the musicians who were big along the way too.

I struck up a conversation with a gentleman from Tennessee. Don is an avid musician, though a railroad guy by trade. Music pulsed through his veins and that of his older brother. Don was quite proud of his big brother which endeared me to him. His brother was the keyboardist for Carl Perkins in the 1980s. Incredible! Don had wonderful stories and a beautiful passion for music. So of course we got along like great chums! I hated parting ways for I could have talked music and music history with him for a very long time.

Alas, I had more museums to tour. Next I was on to the famous STAX recording studio museum. More Soul music! I slowly walked the exhibits learning about the different musicians like Otis Redding, the Staple Singers and Isaac Hayes. Some of my favorite soul music was created by that studio.

After a full day of feeding my brain and my spirit with all things Rock and Soul – I was hungry! As I said, my Lyft driver suggested a BBQ place that was near my Airbnb. I took a chance. And I am here to say – I am so glad I did. The very moment I stepped into Charlie Vergos Rendezvous, I knew my stomach and I were going to be a very happy duo! The smells, sounds and feel of the place all had a great vibe. After meeting my bartender, Lenzell, I knew I made the right choice for a restaurant. My order was a small plate of ribs and sweet tea. Lenzell cheerfully set my order in front of me as if he couldn’t wait to see my reaction. I lit up – I do love some great BBQ! Then, at one point, he looked a little concerned. I blinked tears at him and said, “this is so good, I think I am going to cry.” The bark! was absolute perfection. He breathed a sigh of relief. And I happily gnawed away. Lenzell and I talked about writing. He promised me that he will work to publish his own. I’m holding him to it!

After Rendezvous, I made my way to Beale Street. Alive with sound, neon and happy people. This girl loves blues music too, which sent me to Rum Boogie Blues Café. I had an absolute blast! I saw two bands and they jammed. It was the ideal ending to my day.

Sunday found me at the home of a King. You might know the name of his home – Graceland. Yes! I made it to Elvis Presley’s infamous mansion. I wasn’t sure what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised. It felt homey, warm and lovely, even with the gold fixtures, rich fabrics. Honestly, I thought it might be a bit gaudy. I was mistaken. What endeared me to the property was that they kept horses in the pasture. I can’t say why, perhaps it was a genuine representation of the spirit of who Elvis was. The Backstage Pass allowed me to improve my tour at Graceland to see the Elvis Experience. This is a series of mini museums highlighting different aspects and artifacts of Elvis’ life. I spent a long time among the jumpsuits and pink Cadillacs.

I did not want to leave Graceland or the museums. Next on my agenda was the famous Sun Studio. Sun Studio is where Elvis recorded his first hit, “That’s Alright (Mama.)” I stood on the X where Elvis recorded it. It also happened to be the studio where Johnny Cash got his start. And a band you might know, named U2, recorded some of Rattle and Hum! I couldn’t get enough of it. To stand on the same place where many musicians created some of their best music – it was surreal. Sun Studio continues to be an active recording studio.