After many disrupted attempts over the years, I FINALLY made it to New Orleans. It is every bit as colorful and creative as I expected. What I didn’t anticipate was the ornate architecture. This is a beautiful city with a deep history. In fact, unbeknownst to me this year marks the 300th anniversary for the City of New Orleans. (I cannot get the Arlo Guthrie song out of my head every time I write New Orleans – and he was singing about a train!)

Many know New Orleans for Mardi Gras and Lassiez Bon Temps Rouler! (Let the good times roll!) The air isn’t thick with humidity – it is rich with history. I stayed in an exquisite Airbnb Tremé home built in the 1880s. The thick walls, pocket doors, warm wood floors, brickwork and high ceilings made the place so cozy and comforting. I was really in New Orleans!

I had a list of places to go and see. And even better, places where I needed to eat and see good music. I knew I was going to be a busy gal! I got right to it – a new friend of mine, Amy provided a fantastic list of restaurants and Happy Hours (I am never one to turn down a HH opportunity!) Checking out the oyster scene was first on my agenda. Living in the Pacific Northwest, I am very spoiled with excellent oysters. The oysters local to New Orleans were delicious. Though I am still quite biased to the PacNW options. After the oysters I moved on to a Cohiba fish small plate. WOW! I can still taste that dish. It was incredible.

From there, it was on to the Circle Bar to watch the Iguanas perform. My dear friend Darla, insisted I had to see them. I had an absolute blast! I don’t know what I liked more – the band or the followers. Wonderfully colorful people who were there to listen to this eclectic band. I instantly felt at home. We were all there for the music. Apparently, the Iguanas play every Wednesday at the Circle Bar. If you get the chance, go! And bring generous tip money for the band. Money worth spending!

After an incredibly restful night – that place was so quiet! – I headed to breakfast. The scene at Willa Jean was fabulous. I loved the vibe, the music, the staff – it was warm and welcoming. I knew Amy had steered me to another excellent choice. I had a brunch-like breakfast bowl with quinoa, arugula and poached eggs.

Then it was off to the National Jazz Museum. I had no idea – this museum is a National Park location! How wonderful is that?! Of course I drank up all the information the museum had to offer. I saw Fats Domino’s baby grand. I saw the very first coronet that Louie Armstrong owned as a young boy. I saw a fascinating exhibit on Women in Jazz. And how “It also explores how these artists have navigated their way as women in predominately male musical culture.” Of course I was all in for that exhibit. I am forever intrigued by the musical trail blazers no matter their genre.

I had the opportunity to talk with the Park Ranger, Bud. I kept getting such a kick out of the fact that we have a National Park dedicated to music! He was incredibly helpful with places to go see music and experience the musical side of New Orleans. I appreciated all that he told me. Then he mentioned an interview series that was going to occur later in the day with a Latino Jazz musician named Fredy Omar. I figured, ‘why not’? I was quickly learning that day of the Latino influence on jazz music in New Orleans. Granted I am not a huge jazz fan, I still had no idea. This was a good opportunity. The interview which eventually will play on one of the New Orleans radio stations was insightful.

I had the opportunity to walk down and listen to a musical duo on Frenchman Street. The chance to get live music at virtually any time – I could get used to this!

The ultimate live music experience was my next stop. Preservation Hall. Established in the early 60s, Preservation Hall is exactly that. A small music venue dedicated to the preservation of the original brass band sound. Maybe 100 people fit into this tiny, almost invisible place. Then the music began – oh! I experienced music like I never have before. I was wholly and completely the music. Every pore and molecule in my body was saturated with music. Again, I sat and focused on BEing in the moment. It really wasn’t difficult. And yet it felt so pivotal in my life. If you haven’t figured it out by now, I am a an unapologetic music nerd, geek, connoisseur. I let the music move me. Usually it flows through me. This moment, in this venue, the music FILLED me.

After Preservation Hall, I made my way through the French Quarter to another of Darla and Amy’s suggestions – Happy Hour at the Carousel Bar at the Monteleone Hotel. It was glorious, a true revolving bar. Luckily it does not spin like a carousel – a lot slower. I had the chance to listen to a wonderful R&B band.

My next food stop was Pesche. More oysters, old fashioneds and catfish with pickled greens. Pesche is part of the Donald Link group. When I mentioned it to Mark he said, oh yeah – I have that guy’s cookbook. Sure enough I look up to the top of the bar and a cookbook I have seen Mark use frequently, Real Cajun is proudly displayed. I knew I was again in another excellent restaurant! It is an extremely busy restaurant so I sat at the bar. Two guys beside me were talking work and the two women on the other side of me seemed to be catching up. I was having a lovely time BEing. Listening to the sounds of a busy restaurant, the happy chatter of the patrons, the clinking of glasses for this or that.

After a while one of the women turned to me and asked what I was eating. Or did I ask her? Either way, the three of us began talking. I had a wonderful time as if I was another friend they were catching up with as well. Rhonda and Michael (yes, female) and I were all around the same age. Each of us with different life experiences and yet we connected instantly. Michael had to leave early. Rhonda and I almost shut the place down. It was great fun, laughing and talking and sharing stories. I made a new friend! – as cheesy and 4th grade as it sounds. We definitely keep up on social media and occasional messages. I look forward to seeing her again.

Friday found me walking around the more touristy part of the city, shops in the French Quarter. I got to meet up with two of my friends, Patricia and Merrill – AND they got to be my ‘lunch with a different person each week’ lunch! We had a lovely time catching up, laughing and BEing in the company of each other. (There’s that word again. And yes, I do purposefully spell it with two capital letters. I am learning in this coffee break the absolute, essential importance to BE.)

Through Merrill and Patricia’s eyes and voices, I saw a very different and sadly not often explored side of New Orleans – the historical part. Remember when I said the air was rich with history? Merrill and Patricia easily demonstrated it. After lunch I walked around with them to see and learn about this tremendous city. Buildings, sites, monuments, lore – this city is inundated with it. I know I only got a very brief glimpse of all this city holds in her soul and spirit.

Katrina is still, 13 years later a dark moment. And yet, from her a lot has risen and flourished. Human Nature.

Since 1997, I have been a fan of a band that hails from New Orleans – Cowboy Mouth. They are an indie band with a sound that is purely New Orleans – eclectic rock, funk, punk, soul, jazz, zydeco – you name it – they are a beautiful pot of musical gumbo. Ever since that fateful day in Dallas, Texas in 1997 – I have bought numerous CDs and caught their shows in cities where I lived or traveled to see them in a little further away destinations. My bucket list goal has always been to see Cowboy Mouth IN NOLA.

When I found out they happened to be in NOLA playing at a festival, I jumped on the chance. The weather was horrendous. Thunderstorms, dark rainy skies. I was not going to be deterred. They were playing at a local festival (I came to learn there is a festival for everything in this town) called Gretna Heritage Festival. Apparently it is a locals favorite and when I talked to the locals they all said “that’s this weekend!?” It looked like a great time with a lot of fun bands. I was there only for one reason.

Sadly, the nasty weather kept a lot of people away. I watched a band called the Mulligan Brothers (make sure to listen to them if you like Americana music!) I noticed a couple of the musicians from Cowboy Mouth walk past me towards a small trailer. They were each talking with someone so I didn’t dare disturb them. I continued to listen to the band and was perfectly happy in the pouring rain. Out of the corner of my eye I saw the lead guitarist stand alone to listen too. He was barely 10 yards from me and he wasn’t talking to anyone. I took a deep breath. I was not going to miss this opportunity.

I carefully walked up and asked for a picture with him. He politely smiled and introduced himself. “Hi, I am John Thomas Griffith.” I shook his hand and took said selfie. We stood and chatted. Enjoying the music and BEing despite the rain. He thought my music trip was incredible. I had found that as soon as I mentioned to a musician that I went to Muscle Shoals, it no longer was a cute music trip. I meant business and that earned me a level of respect. We continued to talk about my trip.

Then I took another deep breath – I’m going all in – I told him the “why” I was on the music trip. I’m doing research for my book. Oh boy! Did that get him talking even more! He was very supportive and excited for me. That was so very very cool. Again, it was yet another sign I am on the right path. He introduced me to some of his buddies and then went to perform.

Of course it was THE BEST COWBOY MOUTH SHOW EVER!! All because I was seeing them in NOLA! It didn’t matter it was an unusually sparse crowd. They still brought their best and I had the time of my life – if you don’t, you are never allowed back (I am kidding – maybe not.)

After the show I met the rest of the band. It was surreal and so damned sweet! That evening was beyond anything I expected. The moral of the story is – take the chance – it might be a bit scary – that’s okay, it will be worth it. Everything you ever want is on the other side of fear.

Obviously New Orleans was an incredible stop.

Wheels up. On to the next city… Austin, Texas.